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Step ladder I like to use a cordless screwdriver to speed things up. Mine has an adjustment for torque so that I don't over-tighten some of the smaller screws. See my cordless screwdriver page to learn more. Mounting Options... Ceiling-fan-installationIf your outlet box is mounted directly to a ceiling joist and it was wired for... say a light fixture. It was NOT meant to hold the weight of a ceiling fan. So... if this is the case I've found that you can screw the the ceiling fan mounting plate directly into the joist... use a "Stud Finder" to mark the location of the joist. If the existing outlet box is nailed into a joist you only have to slide the ceiling fan mounting plate over an inch or two and screw the plate directly into the ceiling joist. The wires are close enough that they will be covered up by the ceiling fan motor cover (or canopy). Secure the mounting plate with Three or four 2 inch long deck screws (that will save you from pre-drilling the holes) That way each screw is holding about 12 pounds each... no problem for this ceiling-fan-installation.
If there is an existing box and it's in the middle of two joist than it must be capable of supporting the moving weight of the fan... 50 pounds. If the outlet box is metal and is mounted into a cross-brace between the two ceiling joist than you should be OK, however... DO NOT use a plastic outlet box. If you don't have adequate support between the joist for this ceiling-fan-installation than I suggest you install a "retrofit" adjustable ceiling fan brace. The one shown fits 16 or 24 inch on center joists, has an extra large electrical box and can be installed without accessing the attic! No tools are necessary and all the weight is supported by the brace. You can even cut it with a hacksaw to make mini brace if you have deadwood between joists. It will need at least 4" clearance, you can use it in mobile homes and... it's recommended for earthquake areas. Cool huh...? If your ceiling-fan-installation is on a steep (sloped) ceiling you may need a longer down-rod to get the proper blade clearance. Longer down-rods are available where you purchased your ceiling fan. A longer bar is also a good idea if you have high vaulted ceilings and want to bring the fan's effects closer to the ground. Hampton Bay Ceiling-Fan-Installation (New)STEP 1. Now we're ready to begin the
ceiling-fan-installation... Secure the fan's hanger bracket to the ceiling joist (as described previously) or outlet box using the screws and lock washers that come with the outlet box.
STEP 2. On the ceiling fan motor assembly... STEP 3. You will need to remove the hanger ball from the down-rod assembly... simply loosen the set screw, remove the cross pin, and slide the ball off the rod
STEP 4. Now you're ready to feed the wires from the ceiling fan motor up through the down-rod. Thread the rod into the coupling be careful not to twist the wires... Next line up the holes in the coupling with the holes in the down rod and replace the lock pin and hitch pin you removed in the previous step.
STEP 5. First take the coupling cover, canopy cover, and canopy and slip them in that order onto the down-rod. Now you can reinstall the hanger ball back onto the down-rod... just make sure the set pin is in place, the set screws are secured correctly, and the wires are not twisted. Ceiling-Fan-Installation - Wiring-A-Ceiling-FanCeiling-Fan-Installation DIY Advice...Avoid electrical shock by turning the proper circuit breaker off or the main fuse before wiring!!! (I can't say that enough) Wiring-a-ceiling-fan is probably the easiest part of this handyman project. You've got 3 possible scenarios...
ONE... A direct connection where you are simply
putting power to the fan. TWO... Connecting a wall switch for the lights. Wiring-a-ceiling-fan Step THREE... Is exactly the same as two except that both the black and red from the ceiling are connect to a double wall switch that will operate the fan and the light separately. If this is what you'd like to do you will need a double switch and 3 wire run to the ceiling fan's location. Finishing the ceiling-fan-installation. Now you can tuck the wires neatly into the outlet box or into the canopy and get ready for the ceiling fan blade installation. Before beginning, you will have to remove the rubber stops from the motor
Handyman-Tip: I like to mount the Blade holders to the blades first... do all five before you begin mounting the blades to the motor. Here's where I like to use my cordless-screwdriver (set to a low torque setting) to install the 15 screws (3 per blade) used in mounting the blades to the blade holders. Once that's done you can begin to install the blades to the motor The motor has an elongated hole between the screw holes (on this model) to aid in lining up the blade holders to the motor. Use your cordless screwdriver to quickly install the blades to the motor. Installing The Light Kit Assembly
Looking up at the mounted ceiling fan, remove one
of the three screws of the lighting kit mounting ring... &
loosen the other two. Ceiling-Fan-Installation Handyman-Tip: Make sure (once again) that the power is off. Switch off the circuit breaker to the fan or remove the fuse. The light assembly electrical connection is
simple...
Now tuck the wires back into the switch housing, push the light assembly together with the mounting plate and install the three screws that hold them together. All that's left is to install the bulbs and install the glass shade. With the rubber washer, metal nut, glass cap & decorative nut removed... Place the glass shade over the stem and secure with the rubber washer then the metal nut. This will hold the glass shade in place while you install the glass cap and decorative nut. Don't over tighten. Handyman-Tip: Make sure you pay attention to how the pull chains are routed through the glass shade and glass cap... you don't want the chains to rub against the bulbs.
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