Drill-Bit-Guide
A drill-bit-guide can come in handy! Over the
years I've drill thousands of holes in all kids of material. Having
said that, I still refer to this guide to make sure I'm using
the correct drill bit for my particular application. Pre-drilling
is basically drilling a hole prior to installing a fastener.
Pre-drilling must be done for a number of reasons... I'll list a few
below:
-
#1... so you don't split the wood with a
screw,
-
material is too hard,
-
creating a hole for something to pass through,
- pre-drill hole provides guide,
improve accuracy,
-
or to counter sink a screw below the work
surface.
Those are some basic reasons you may need to
pre-drill a hole. If you don't have a drill-bit-guide, typically the
hole is 3/4's the size of the
fastener you plan to use. People think that you only have to pre-drill
for screws but you could pre-drill for nails depending on the
material.
Let's say your a framing carpenter... you don't
have to pre-drill pine 2 x 4's (lucky for them) because the material is
soft enough to hammer a nail without splitting the wood.
Now... Let's say you're installing pressure
treated deck boards. I typically only pre-drill holes that come within
2 inches of the end of the board. Why? Because the end grain tends to
split exposing to the inside wood fibers... possibly causing
pre-mature rot and it looks terrible!
You'll have to drill holes in different materials
or for different types of fasteners such as a toggle bolt. Ceramic tile
requires a special drill bit as does metal or concrete. This
drill-bit-guide will help you determine what size drill bit you may
require for a particular application.
Pre-Drill
Bit Sizes Chart
| Screw
Sizes |
Counter
Bore Diameter for Screw Head |
Clearance
Hole for Screw Shank |
Pilot
Hole (hard-wood) |
Plot
Hole (soft-wood) |
| #1 |
9/64 or
.146 |
5/64 |
3/64 |
1/32 |
| #2 |
1/4 |
3/32 |
3/64 |
3/32 |
| #3 |
1/4 |
7/64 |
1/16 |
3/64 |
| #4 |
1/4 |
1/8 |
1/16 |
3/64 |
| #5 |
1/4 |
1/8 |
5/64 |
1/16 |
| #6 |
5/16 |
9/64 |
3/32 |
5/64 |
| #7 |
5/16 |
5/32 |
3/32 |
5/64 |
| #8 |
3/8 |
11/64 |
1/8 |
3/32 |
| #9 |
3/8 |
11/64 |
1/8 |
3/32 |
| #10 |
3/8 |
3/16 |
1/8 |
7/64 |
| #11 |
1/2 |
3/16 |
5/32 |
9/64 |
| #12 |
1/2 |
7/32 |
9/64 |
1/8 |
Always Pre-Drill near
the end of board...
As a general rule of thumb, you will want to pre-drill holes for screws
or nails installed near the edge of a board. Like the deck board
mentioned above, if you're installing some nice trim work around
a door, window or baseboard. You'll want to pre-drill for the small 4d
or 6d nails if hammered in near the edge of the molding. The last thing
you'll want is to crack or split the decorative trim!
Drill-Bit-Guide
For Toggle Bolts
When you purchase toggle bolts the package will
list the size drill bit required. I've included a drill-bit-guide below
for the most common toggle sizes.
One caveat to using toggle bolts is that if you're
drilling into a wall
stud... You will not be able to use them! Before you drill for a toggle
bolt... check for studs using a stud
finder. Finding a stud is a good problem cause you can simply
drill directly into the stud eliminating the need for a toggle bolt in
the first place.
If
you
don't have a stud finder... drill a very
small hole where you want to drill for the toggle (about 1 1/2 inches
deep). Take a paper clip and straighten it out. Stick the paper clip
into the wall. If it goes deeper than the hole you drilled you are NOT
in a stud and are cleared "hot" to drill the bigger hole. If you CAN'T
stick the paper clip in further... than more than likely you're in a
wall stud.
Drill-Bit-Guide
Drill bits are
cutting tools that create a round
hole. Placed inside a drill, they spin at high speeds to bore the hole
in whatever material you need a hole in. I know... pretty basic but it
had to be said.
Twist
Bits are for general purpose drilling. At a minimum, I
buy Titanium drill bits that can be used in many different surfaces
from soft wood to hard metal. You can get Cobalt bits as well which are
supper hard bits. When cutting metal, you use a punch to create a dent
for the twist bit. This "dent" acts as a drill-bit-guide for accuracy.
Brad-Point-Bits
is a variation of a twist-bit used to cut holes in wood and has a
center "brad" point that allows for accurate positioning and prevents
skating. Brad-point bits are more expensive but the profile creates a
much cleaner hole in most cases and the brad in the center makes it
easy to place the bit accurately on layout lines.
Tapered
W/ Counter Bore. I use this bit
for pre-drilling holes with a counter bore at the top of the hole for
screws. The tapered cut mimics the shape of the screw and allows for a
stronger hold in the wood. The counter bore allows for the screws head
to be flush with the works surface.
Carbide-Tip
Masonry is another variation of the twist bit and it's
used for cutting holes in concrete, brick and other masonry materials.
This bit is typically used with a hammer-drill
which both rotates and hammers the bit into the work piece. The
hammering
action of the drill breaks up the material at the front of the bit
while the flutes of the bits body carry away the dust.
More
Drill-Bit-Guides
Forstner
Bits, named after their inventor, Benjamin Forstner, are
great at boring precise flat bottom holes in wood. I've used
them for making holes to inlay coins in plaques and other types of
inlays.
They can cut on the edge of a block of wood or overlapping holes.
They're
best used in a drill press since they require more force to push them
into the wood, but you can use a hand drill (depending on the size of
the bit).
These bits also have a center point which guides it into the cut and
leaves a small hole in the otherwise flat bottom.
Screw-Point
Boring bit also known as an auger bit
is used for boring larger holes for in wood. Electricians use them to
create the large holes through framing to run electrical wires.
The self-feeding screw point draws the bit into the wood and the large
flutes remove the waste material as you drill.
Spade-bits
are used for rough wood boring because they tend to splinter the wood
when exiting the material.
Hole-Saws
consist of a metal cylinder mounted on an arbor with pilot bit. These
bits can have teeth for a cutting edge used to drill holes in wood, or
industrial diamonds embedded for cutting hard material like faucet
holes
in a granite countertop. The one shown is for cutting wood and has a
pilot bit. Diamond bits will not have a pilot bit. They are used with
portable drills. They will come in several different sizes from
1/4 inch to over 5 inches. Industrial diamond embedded ones can be even
larger.
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