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Repair-Running-Toilet
Faulty Fill/Flapper Valve Replacement
Repair-Running-Toilet isn't what I look forward to
as a handyman. I'm sure you can understand why... I mean... do I have
to go there? Anyhoo, the other day I was helping my 3 year old with a
#2. When he flushed the toilet, I noticed that it was leaking in the
back and dripping down the wall. After close inspection I saw that it
was coming from UNDER the tank lid.
After removing the tank lid... I flushed the
toilet again to notice that water was shooting straight up out of the
fill valve. That really wasn't a problem except that the water would
hit the bottom of the tank's lid under pressure and shoot out the back
and onto the wall... Time to Repair-Running-Toilet!
This is another handyman fixit job that should
take about 30 minutes... even for the first-time DIY'er so let's get
started.
Remove Old
Toilet Valve...
STEP 1: Turn off the
water that supplies the tank. Look below the tank, on the left side as
you face the toilet. Turn the water supply valve to the right
(clockwise) to shut off the water flow (Remember... Rightee-tightee...
Leftee-Loosee).
STEP 2: Unscrew the
supply hose from the toilet valve. The connection should be hand-tight
so try to remove it by hand. If it's too tight then crab a pair of
Channel Lock Pliers to assist you in loosening it up. Be careful not to
gorilla-grip though... it's made of plastic (Remember...
Rightee-tightee... Leftee-Looseee) (I promise that's the last time you
see that). You only need to remove the hose from the toilet fill valve
and not the water supply side. Simply move it out of the way when
you're done.
STEP 3:Using an
Adjustable wrench, remove the plastic nut that holds the fill valve in
place. Once you've got that nut removed you can reach up and pull out
the entire toilet fill valve.
I purchased a Korky brand "quiet fill" type of
fill valve... not that I have a preference, I'm sure they're all pretty
much the same. The instructions for installation are inside the package
so it's really a no-brainer.
Putting It
Back Together... Repair-Running-Toilet
STEP 1: Remove the
old flapper valve and put on the new (my flapper valve came with the
fill valve). I figured since I had it apart anyway I'd better put all
new parts in there. One thing I've noticed about these new flapper
valves is that they don't stay open like the old ones. I could be
completely wrong about this but here's what I figured... You have to
hold the handle down while the toilet flushes. If you simply push the
handle and then let up, it stops the flush. I guess it's a water
conservation thing.
STEP: 2:Now you're
ready to complete the repair-running-toilet by installing the new
toilet fill valve. Follow the instruction that come with your unit in
regards to installation. This unit had to be installed in the "locked"
position and at an angle so you can "unlock" it and adjust the water
level in the tank once it was installed. Slide the threaded shaft
through the tanks hole and thread the new mounting nut onto the shaft
of the new fill valve. REMEMBER... Hand tight only.
STEP 3: I had to
adjust the fill valve height on this model. That's the unlock part I
was talking about. After it was unlocked I could pull up on the valve
till the critical level (C/L) mark on the valve head's was 1 inch about
the water line in the tank. After that I turned the valve head
clockwise again to lock it. This unit came with a tamper proof key that
prevents further adjustment once the valve was snapped into the locked
position. It simply wedges into position beneath the valves shaft.
STEP 4: Attach refill
tube, re-connect the water supply line, turn on the water, and this
toilet repair is almost done. REMEMBER... Hand tight only.
Over tightening of the coupling nut on the valve could could
ever-stress the valve. The water will come rushing into the tank
filling it. You'll want to flush it three times and check for leaks. If
you have no leaks then you're all done with the
Repair-Running-Toilet... Good Job!
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